Seen Through Black Eyes

In the late ‘90s and early aught years of the 2000s, I was living and working in the San Francisco Bay area. One of my co-workers knew that I loved to travel and told me about a trip that he and three other coworkers and a friend of his were planning and said I was welcome to come along if interested. The place they were going was to a resort town that was basically put on the map during the Vietnam War as a nearby play the US military sent the frontline troops for rest and relaxation (R&R) a.k.a (leave). The place was Pattaya Thailand.

The city was known for its beaches, nightlife, and proximity to Bangkok. Many soldiers would visit Pattaya to relax and unwind before returning to the front lines of the war. The city saw a significant increase in tourism during the war, as more and more soldiers came to Pattaya on leave. The local economy boomed as a result, with new businesses and hotels popping up to accommodate the influx of visitors.

During the Vietnam War, many American servicemen in Pattaya found short-term girlfriends, while others formed long-lasting relationships and even wives. While another category of servicemen married the Thai women but not to bring them to the United States, but so they could stay in Thailand.

These individuals made this choice after hearing from other soldiers who brought Thai brides home that these relationships were not always easy back in the states for two reasons; 1) because of language differences and 2), disapproval of their families and friends. Note that the difficulty of the latter far outweighed the difficulty of the former.

The relationships between American servicemen and Thai women were not always viewed positively. Many soldiers were criticized for exploiting local women and taking advantage of the economic and social disparities between the two groups. Furthermore, some soldiers would engage in short-term relationships and leave the women behind when they returned to the front lines.

Another unintended consequence of this symbiotic relationship between American servicemen and Thai women was that Pattaya developed a counterculture. As a way to deal with the horrors of war many soldiers sought either the comfort of a lady, escapism through of drug use, or both.

The war in Vietnam had a significant impact on the lives of both the American servicemen and the Thai women they met. For some, it was a time of love and companionship, while for others, it was a time of exploitation and heartbreak. Regardless, the relationships formed during the Vietnam War had a lasting impact on the lives of many individuals, and the cultural exchange between American soldiers and Thai women continues to be a significant part of Pattaya's history.

Despite this, Pattaya remained a popular destination for American soldiers during the Vietnam War and continues to be a major tourist destination in Thailand today.

Today Pattaya is a popular tourist destination known for its beautiful beaches, lively nightlife, and numerous activities. My journey to Pattaya began with a flight from San Francisco to Hong Kong. The flight was long, and unlike my flight to Frankfurt, which came years later, I was not in first or business class.

As the plane took off and began its journey across the Pacific, I was able to look out the window and see the beautiful California coastline as it gradually disappears into the distance. Back then there were no individual seatback screens. Everyone had to watch the same damn thang. No in-flight Wi-Fi, so you can stay connected with friends and family on the ground either. So, a twelve-hour flight felt like a freakin twelve-hour flight.

Once we were settled in your seat, we were offered a variety of snacks and drinks, including a meal service. The entrée on a long-haul flight like this one is usually hot. Yes, that is about the best compliment I could dish out for food in economy back in the aught years.

Another of the downsides of the economy class is that the seats are not as comfortable as the higher classes, and the legroom is limited. Additionally, the cabin can get quite warm and stuffy, especially during the long flight. This can make it difficult to get comfortable and get a good night's sleep.

To combat jet lag, it is recommended to hydrate and eat healthy, avoid alcohol but sloshing it up seems to be the best way to get through a 12-hour flight in economy. The use of earplugs, eye masks and neck pillows (and a heavy dose of alcohol) can also help you to relax and sleep.

A few of us were able to find a somewhat out of the way area where we could stand and talk just to get a reprieve from the seats.

Upon arrival in Hong Kong, we had to change carriers before our onward journey to Bangkok. Once we all exited security to get to exchange our employee passes for our boarding passes, we traversed security and was ready to board our three-hour flight. Our total layover time in Hong Kong was about three hours.

After this transitory dance in Hong Kong, it was time for our flight to Bangkok. The flight was smooth and uneventful, and upon arrival in Bangkok, which was around midnight, we were greeted by the warm and humid weather of Thailand. We quickly made our way through immigration and customs, and then took a taxi to Pattaya. The drive was about two-hours long and the views were nothing to write home about. But either way we were exhausted from the journey and couldn’t enjoy the views even if it was spectacular.

Once we arrived in Pattaya, we had a bit of a problem. When we arrived at the hotel the agent said that we did not have a reservation. The person in charge raised his voice and put on a show for us. Why do I say that…we were on a twelve-hour flight from San Francisco to Hong Kong in economy, we had a three-hour layover in Hong Kong and a three-hour flight from Hong Kong to Bangkok, then a two-hour taxi ride arriving in Pattaya around two in the morning. Knowing this person, he would not have given up so easily if he was in the right.

Fortunately for us, a hotel had just opened a few days prior and the clerk suggested we check with them. As fate would have it, The Eastiny Hotel had five rooms available for the next seven days, so we were good. So, we all checked in our rooms and set out to explore the city. The first thing that struck me was the vibrant energy of the city. The streets were filled with people, vendors, and street performers even at three and four in the morning.

We all went out together the morning we arrived, but later that evening when we went out, we splintered off into smaller groups. I spent the next few days exploring the city and its surroundings. I visited the famous Pattaya floating market, where I purchased souvenirs and local handicrafts.

One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the Sanctuary of Truth, a wooden temple that was hand-carved by skilled artisans. The intricate carvings and sculptures were a sight to behold, and I spent hours exploring the temple and learning about its history and significance.

In addition to the various activities, I participated in, I also enjoyed the nightlife in Pattaya. The city is known for its lively bars, clubs, and shows, and I had a great time exploring the different venues and meeting new people. The bars, lounges, and night clubs are plenty in Pattaya. Pattaya is well-known for its lively and vibrant nightlife scene, particularly when it comes to bars. The city has a wide variety of bars to choose from, catering to all different types of travelers and budgets. Walking Street, located in the heart of Pattaya, is the main hub of the bar scene and is where many of the most popular bars are located. This street is closed to traffic at night, making it easy to walk from one bar to the next and take in the lively atmosphere.

One of the most popular types of bars in Pattaya are the “beer-bars.” Imagine a large, covered flea-market. And on the inside of this open-aired enclosure are a plethora of individual bars, each with staffed by a “matriarch,” and ten to twelve bar girls. The goal of the young ladies is to is to get you to buy drinks and more drinks. Since there is no cover charge, customers buying drinks is the only way the bar makes any money.

Another popular bar type in go-go bars. These bars feature scantily clad dancers performing on stage, and often offer private shows and lap dances for customers. The atmosphere in these bars is usually loud and lively, with music blasting and people dancing. Some of the most well-known go-go bars in Pattaya include "Walking Street Pattaya" and "Soi 6 Pattaya".

For those looking for a more upscale experience, Pattaya also has a number of rooftop bars and clubs. These bars offer stunning views of the city and the ocean, and feature a more sophisticated atmosphere. Some popular rooftop bars in Pattaya include "Sky Gallery Pattaya" and "Sugar Hut Pattaya". Back in the day when I visited Pattaya’s Walking Street, the upscale spot I frequented was called, “The Rooftop.” This spot was known for playing American Hip-hop and rap.

Thailand is also known for its massage culture, and there are many different types of massage to choose from. Two of the most popular types of massage in Thailand are oil massage and Thai massage and I tried them both. Both of these massages have their own unique benefits and styles, and they offer different experiences to the client.

Oil massage is a traditional Western-style massage that uses oils, such as coconut or almond oil, to lubricate the skin. The therapist used long, flowing strokes to massage my entire body, focusing on pressure points and specific areas of tension. This massage is designed to relax the body, reduce stress, and ease muscle tension and this massage did all three. One minute into this massage and I felt like my vacation had really just begun.

On the other hand, Thai massage is a traditional therapeutic massage that is based on ancient healing practices. It is a full-body massage that combines acupressure, yoga-like stretching, and gentle pressure to release tension and stress. The therapist will use their hands, feet, knees, and elbows to apply pressure and stretch the body in various positions. This massage hurt…this massage caused as much pain as it relieved. The therapist tried to bend me in ways my body was not designed to go.

For example, we sat on the floor facing each other with the soles of our feet touching, with my legs flat on the floor. She then gestured for me to put my hands in hers. Then she pulled…nearly shredding my hamstring. My scream resembled an a cappellic crescendo and at that very moment someone must have begun peeling onions because I felt the sensation an excess of lacrimal fluid filling my eyes. To stop this excruciating pain, I pulled back, and so did she. She then had the nerve to say, “you’re not supposed to pull.” I said, “neither are you.”

After she finished torturing my hamstrings, she got behind me, forced her toes between the mat and my butt, put her knees against my back, grabbed my arms and rocked back until I was up in the air on her knees. My back cracked, and I almost lost consciousness. I must have passed out because I cannot remember anything else about the massage.

Both oil massage and Thai massage have their own unique benefits and are great for different purposes. Oil massage is a great option for those who want to relax and unwind, while Thai massage is ideal for those who want to relieve pain and tension, and improve flexibility. Some people prefer one type of massage over the other, while others like to combine both types of massage to get the best of both worlds.

Oh… when I returned back to work I was so excited to tell everyone that I had fallen in love. Everyone was like, YOU…in love. What is her name? I said…I don’t know. The best massage of them all is the foot massage. The young lady that gave me the foot massage was a professional. When I first sat down I told her that my feet are very sensitive and I easily tickle. She assuaged my concerns saying that she had given many people a foot massage that had ticklish feet so I thought I would try it.

She began by gently massaging my feet, working on the pressure points and using a variety of techniques such as kneading, pressing, and stretching. The sensation was both relaxing and energizing.

She then moved on to my legs, using their hands and elbows to apply pressure and work out any knots or tension. She even used a wooden stick to tap and stimulate the reflex points on my feet, which corresponded to different parts of my body.

Throughout the massage, I was also treated to gentle stretches and yoga-like movements. She guided me through various positions, helping to release tension and improve flexibility.

One of the most unique and memorable aspects of my first Thai foot massage was the use of a warm herbal compress, which was applied to my feet and legs. The compress was made from a blend of herbs and minerals, and the warmth helped to soothe and relax my muscles.

When she was done with me, I was in such a relaxed state just shy of coma. When I stood it was as if I was intoxicated.

I paid and went on my way. A few days later after a long walk on the beach I saw a Foot Massage parlor across the street and I went in. Folks, I don’t mean to throw shade…but this therapist could not hold the hem of the first therapist’s garment. The day after that I tried a third place. It was then that I knew I had to find that first therapist because I fell in love with her, and that experience made the massage even more memorable. I have been back to Pattaya 157 times looking for her with no luck.

In summary, the Thai foot massage is a unique and therapeutic experience that is worth trying. It's a combination of reflexology, acupressure, and yoga-like stretches that focus on the feet and lower legs. It's designed to help improve overall health and well-being, and it's relaxing and rejuvenating. During my experience, I had an amazing masseuse who helped me to understand the benefits of the massage and her gentle touch and kind demeanor made me feel a sense of connection and I fell in love with her.

Because I have visited Thailand a few times I will now discuss another Thailand trip where we went to Phuket. The comparison of the nightlife scene of Pattaya and Phuket can be best summed up by how Thai people compare things that are similar but different, “same-same but different”. There are many of the same type of beer and go-go bars with a few more upscale clubs and restaurants.

From Phuket, one day a few of us took a boat tour of the nearby Phi Phi Island, where we snorkeled and swam in the beautiful waters…at least that eventually happened.

I had never snorkeled before, so I had ten minutes of instruction. The main take-away was, “1) before you jump into the water inhale, 2) once you jump in the water, you will go under and the tube will fill with water, 3) once you rise to the surface exhale to push the water out, 4) then you can breathe as normal.” Once I jumped into the water my brain short circuited and I started with #4 and it went downhill from there. Panic ensued and…well I am here to tell the story right.

At this point I had to push not only the water in the tube, but also the water that was in my lungs. After about ten tense seconds, I was able to clear both my lungs and the tube. I am not 100% sure but it seemed as though there was an employee seated at the back of the boat that was watching us and he thought I might be in distress and each time I came up he had a concerned posture. Then he had a relaxed posture once I got things under control. I could be wrong, but I doubt it.

Once I finally got everything under control it was an enjoyable experience. Snorkeling on Phi Phi Island is a truly unforgettable experience. The crystal-clear waters make it easy to see all the underwater beauty, and the many snorkeling tours available make it accessible to both beginners and experienced snorkelers.

One of the most popular spots for snorkeling on the island is Maya Bay, where the movie "The Beach" was filmed. The bay is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs, and the snorkeling here is simply breathtaking. The bay is protected by a reef, making the waters here calm and clear, and you can see a wide variety of tropical fish, including angelfish, parrotfish, and butterfly fish, as well as vibrant coral reefs.

Another popular spot for snorkeling on Phi Phi Island is Shark Point, where you can see leopard sharks and other marine life. The leopard sharks here are completely harmless to humans and are a real treat to see. Other marine life that you might encounter at Shark Point include schools of barracuda, yellowtail snapper, and even the occasional sea turtle.

The island's crystal-clear waters also make it perfect for diving and snorkeling, with many different diving and snorkeling locations around the island. The marine park on the island is home to a wide variety of marine life, including tropical fish, rays, and even whale sharks. The park is also home to a number of shipwrecks, making it a great spot for diving as well as snorkeling.

Overall, snorkeling on Phi Phi Island is an experience that should not be missed. The island's diverse and colorful marine life, crystal-clear waters, and variety of snorkeling locations make it a snorkeler's paradise. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced snorkeler, you're sure to have an amazing time exploring the underwater world of Phi Phi Island.

Another touristy thing we did was to visit James Bond Island. James Bond Island is a famous spot located in Phang Nga Bay in Thailand, and it was made famous by the James Bond movie "The Man with the Golden Gun" which was released in 1974.

Riding a motorcycle on James Bond Island is an exhilarating experience that offers a unique perspective of this beautiful natural wonder. The island is known for its towering limestone cliffs that rise out of the crystal-clear water, and it is considered one of the most photogenic spots in the world. The best way to explore this island is by motorcycle, as it allows you to get up close and personal with the stunning scenery.

As you ride your motorcycle along the winding roads on James Bond Island, you'll be greeted by lush tropical forests, vibrant green rice paddies, and quaint villages. The smell of the sea and the sound of the waves crashing against the shore will be your constant companions as you make your way to the island.

Riding a motorcycle on the hilly terrain of James Bond Island is a thrilling experience. The winding roads, sharp turns and steep inclines offer a challenging ride that requires skill and focus. On one of these steep inclines, I gave the engine just a little too much throttle and I almost flipped backwards. Fortunately, I was able to twist the bike in such a way that the bike fell on its side pinning my leg underneath it. Another bit of fortune for me is that when the motorcycle pinned my leg underneath it, the footrest prevented the motorcycle and more importantly the exhaust pipe off my leg. My third bit of fortune was that there was no damage to the motorcycle.

After my mishap I was able to take in the views of the island's lush green landscape and crystal-clear waters which made the ride even more enjoyable. As I made my way through the island, I passed towering limestone cliffs and hidden caves, which provided a unique perspective of the island's natural beauty.

As I rode along the shoreline, I was able to see the different types of boats that are used in the area, from traditional wooden fishing boats to modern speedboats. I was also able to see the different types of wildlife that call James Bond Island home, such as monkeys, birds, and even the occasional monitor lizard.

One of the highlights of riding a motorcycle on James Bond Island is the opportunity to explore the caves and grottoes that are scattered throughout the island. These caves are home to a wide variety of wildlife, and they offer a glimpse into the island's rich history.

In summary, riding a motorcycle on James Bond Island is an unforgettable experience that is full of adventure, excitement and natural beauty. The winding roads, the towering limestone cliffs, and the diverse wildlife make James Bond Island a unique and beautiful place to visit. The island is a true natural wonder and a must-see destination for anyone who loves motorcycles and nature. However, it is important to exercise caution as the terrain can be unpredictable, and the roads can be narrow. Oh, and by the way, I must revisit the movie The Man with the Golden Gun to see if I can recognize any areas that was filmed there.

After a pleasant boat ride back to the mainland and a full day on James Bond Island, I was ready to do absolutely nothing and what better place to that, than the beach. The beaches in Phuket are also known for their crystal-clear waters and white sandy shores, and they lived up to their reputation.

In conclusion, Thailand is a great vacation spot for those who want to enjoy a tropical paradise with beautiful beaches, delicious food, and rich culture. The trip from San Francisco to Hong Kong and Hong Kong to Bangkok is a long one, but the journey is worth it. The vibrant energy of Pattaya and Phuket are truly unforgettable and I am definitely glad I had the opportunity experience some of what The Land of Smiles has to offer.

Thank you for sticking around to the end.

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