Episode 14: Discovering Napa Through the Lens of a Japanese Film: A Sideways Story

By Darwin Hanna / 20 Feb 2023 / 33:17

In the spring of 2011, myself and a close female friend from Japan (Sanako) were planning a week-long vacation to the Napa Valley Wine country in California for that summer. About a month before our trip Sanako (in the most demure way) asked if it would be okay if her girlfriend came along because she was a huge fan of the Japanese remake of the movie Sideways and wanted to retrace the movements of the main characters in that movie. (Real briefly – the original movie Sideways (starring Paul Giamatti, Paul Haden, Sandra Oh, and Virginia Madsen) tells the story of two old friends, Miles and Jack, who take a week-long road trip through California's wine country. Miles, an unsuccessful writer and divorced teacher, is in the midst of a mid-life crisis, while Jack is a washed-up actor who is about to get married. Along the way, they encounter a number of colorful characters, including Jack's prospective mother-in-law, an old flame of Miles' and a pair of female wine-tasters. As the week progresses, Miles and Jack come to realize that their friendship is far deeper than either of them had previously realized, and their journey through California's wine country ultimately helps them to rediscover themselves and the importance of true friendship.

While Sanako had seen and enjoyed the movie, Yuriko had seen it at least 10 times and was a huge and rabid fan. So, when she found out that Sanako was going to where the movie was filmed, she asked if she could come along.

I had seen the US version of Sideways, so we had a common frame of reference. We were not wine connoisseurs, but we knew what we liked when we tasted it. The movie did inspire us to explore different types of wines and learn more about the rich history and culture of winemaking.

In June, they flew non-stop on my employee passes from Osaka and I flew in from DC to San Francisco. San Francisco International Airport (SFO) is one of the busiest airports in the United States and serves as a gateway to the Bay Area. Upon arrival, visitors have several options for transportation to their destination including rental cars, taxis, public transportation, and now ride-sharing services. For those looking for independence and the ability to explore at their leisure, renting a car is a popular option.

Napa Valley is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, located just over an hour's drive north of San Francisco. The drive from SFO to Napa Valley is scenic and offered up views of the beautiful Northern California landscape.

We headed north on US-101, which is the main highway connecting the airport to Napa Valley. The drive is straightforward and well-marked, with signs pointing the way to Napa. Along the way, visitors can stop at several scenic spots, including the Golden Gate Bridge, Muir Woods, and the Sonoma Coast. Yeah, if you take US-101 all the way to Napa you will be driving forever. So, once you get into San Fran proper (The Mission District to be exact) if you keep straight north, US-101 turns into I-80. The direct route is scenic enough, so I did not deviate to the aforementioned, (note, on the way back to the airport they did want to go the scenic route and we crossed the Gold Gate bridge). The drive to Napa is between 90 and 120 minutes.

Driving from San Francisco to Napa, we were surrounded by a stunningly beautiful landscape, with rolling hills and vineyards as far as the eye could see. The highway wound its way through the countryside, and the sun shone brightly on the golden fields of grapevines. As we drove, we passed through small towns and villages, taking in the quaint architecture and friendly locals. We passed wineries and tasting rooms, and the smell of grapes and oak barrels filled the air. The scenery changed as we drove further north, and we began to see the majestic Redwood forests that line the route. The trees towered over us, and the shadows they cast over the winding road made for a breathtaking sight. We continued on, winding our way up into the hills, and the valley opened up before us. We could see for miles, and the vineyards stretched out for as far as we could see. After about another ten minutes’ drive we finally arrived in Napa, and the area was alive with activity.

The roads were lined with restaurants, tasting rooms, and shops; and the air was filled with the smell of freshly cooked food. The town was bustling with visitors, and we could feel the energy of the area as we arrived. We enjoyed the sights and sounds, and the friendly and welcoming atmosphere that Napa is known for. The stunning scenery and friendly locals made for a wonderful journey, and we will cherish the memories for years to come.

Once in Napa Valley, we made a B-line for the accommodations. Since this trip was more there’s than mine, Yuriko chose our accommodation, and she chose The River Terrace Inn. The River Terrace Inn in Napa is a wonderful accommodation for those looking for a leisurely getaway. With its breathtaking views of the Napa River and surrounding vineyards, the inn provides a serene and peaceful environment to relax and enjoy the beauty of the valley. The inn features luxurious and spacious guest rooms, all of which come equipped with modern amenities such as flat screen TVs and complimentary high-speed internet. Guests can also enjoy the outdoor pool and hot tub, perfect for taking a refreshing dip after a day of exploring the area.

The River Terrace Inn is conveniently located in the heart of downtown Napa, within walking distance of numerous restaurants, shops, and attractions. Guests of the inn can take advantage of excellent wine tasting tours, hot air balloon rides, and kayaking tours of the Napa River. For a unique experience, visitors can also take a hot air balloon ride at night and enjoy the stunning views of the valley from the sky. The inn also provides a variety of services that made sure that we had an unforgettable stay. The on-site restaurant, The River Terrace Bistro, serves up delicious California-style cuisine as well as a selection of local wines. For added convenience, the inn offers complimentary bike rentals, allowing guests to explore the area in a healthy and environmentally friendly way.

The River Terrace Inn is located in the heart of downtown Napa, a short walk from the Napa River and the Oxbow Public Market. The inn features a variety of comfortable and modern rooms, each complete with a plush bed, private balcony, and an en-suite bathroom. For a more luxurious stay, guests can opt for the Riverfront Suite, which offers an expansive living area, private terrace, and stunning views of the river. The on-site restaurant, The View, is the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The restaurant serves up delicious, locally-sourced ingredients in a variety of dishes, ranging from grilled fish and pizzas to a classic Cobb salad.

During the warmer months, the outdoor patio is the perfect spot to enjoy a meal or a glass of local wine. The inn also offers a full-service spa, complete with saunas, steam rooms, and a variety of massage and body treatments. For fitness enthusiasts, the fitness center provides a range of state-of-the-art equipment, from treadmills and bikes to free weights and strength training machines. Needless to say, the fitness center never knew I was a guest.

We took full advantage of the free Wi-Fi, two outdoor pools and the hot tubs. After a long day exploring the area, you can enjoy a delicious meal at their on-site restaurant, the River Terrace Bar & Grill. Even though we had a rental car, we still took advantage of the complimentary shuttle service to local wineries, restaurants, and shopping. The staff at the River Terrace Inn were friendly and accommodating, and they went above and beyond to make sure our stay was enjoyable. They provided us with an insider’s view of the city and suggested some of the best places to explore, shop and dine.

For those looking for something to do in the evening, The River Terrace Inn in Napa offers a movie theater, a bowling alley, and a variety of live entertainment. The amenities are top-notch, and the views are simply breathtaking. From the moment we arrived, we were in awe of the natural beauty surrounding us.

We easily found a range of attractions to explore, including vineyards, wineries, and tasting rooms. Okay, let me stop right there. I am sure some people are wondering what is the difference between a winery and a vineyard. A winery and a vineyard are both places associated with grapevines and wine production, but they are quite different.

A vineyard is the land where grapes are grown, planted, and harvested. A winery is the facility where grapes are processed, and wine is made. Vineyards are typically outdoors, while wineries are traditionally indoors. Vineyards are usually large and sprawling, while wineries are usually smaller, with several sections for storage, production, and packaging. Wineries also require specialized equipment, such as fermentation tanks and bottling lines, while vineyards require specialized pruning and irrigation techniques. While vineyards and wineries may be owned by the same person or company, they are two distinct entities with different functions.

We didn't waste any time unpacking when we arrived at the River Terrace Inn! Within the hour, we had our bags put away and were out the door. We followed our map in search of the first Sideways filming location, eager to take in the sights and immerse ourselves in the culture of the area. We drove north on CA-29 along the winding roads, taking in the rolling hills and vineyards, stopping every now and then to admire the view. Before we knew it, we were at our destination: (believe it or not, our first stop in Napa Valley Wine Country was not a winery but a small grocery store the characters in this Japanese movie stopped and shopped in. I cannot remember the name so if anyone knows the name of the store, please go to my webpage www.SeenThroughBlackEyes.com and leave the name in the comments section. After a short stop at this grocery store we were on our way.

With a wide variety of winery/vineyard options available, we were eager to explore some of the area’s most popular wineries. I made the suggestion of visiting the Robert Mondavi Winery. Founded in 1966, Robert Mondavi Winery is a leader in Napa Valley’s wine industry. This winery is one of the most iconic wineries in the Napa Valley. As soon as we stepped foot inside the winery, we were blown away by the beauty and elegance of the space. The grounds were immaculate and the staff was friendly and knowledgeable. They even took the time to explain the history of the winery and how it has been passed down through the generations.

Briefly…there is an estranged history between Mr. Mondavi and his father. The feud between Robert Mondavi and his father Cesare was a long-running dispute between the two over the direction of the family winemaking business. Robert Mondavi wanted to change the way wine was made and marketed in California. He believed in making high-quality wines using the best grapes, modern winemaking techniques, and innovative marketing. Robert also wanted to focus on expanding the business. Cesare preferred to maintain the traditional methods and continue selling to local markets and producing low-cost bulk wines.

Robert eventually won out and the business expanded, but Cesare was never happy with the changes. The feud continued and eventually led to Robert leaving the family business and founding the Robert Mondavi Winery, which became one of the most influential and successful wineries in the world.

The Robert Mondavi Winery offered a variety of tastings and tours that allowed us to learn about the winery’s history, the wine making process, and the different varieties of wines they produce. After the tour, we had the opportunity to sample some of the wines from the winery. We were impressed by the quality of the wines and the knowledge of the staff that shared their passion for their craft.


The winery offers a variety of tours and tastings, and we were lucky enough to experience one of their signature experiences, the “Olive and Oak Tour.” This tour provided an in-depth look at the winemaking process and an up-close view of the vineyards. During the tour, we learned about the history of the winery and the importance of terroir in the winemaking process. The tour culminated with a tasting of four of their wines, which included a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, a Merlot, and a Cabernet Sauvignon. The next day, we visited Sutter Home Winery.

This winery was established in 1890 and is one of the oldest wineries in the Napa Valley. The winery is located in St. Helena and is a true family-owned business. As soon as we entered the winery, I knew we were in for a treat. The winery is set in a beautiful historic mansion that was originally built in the 1800s. The grounds are well-manicured, and the tasting room was warm and inviting. The staff at the Sutter Home Winery were incredibly friendly and knowledgeable. They took the time to explain the different wines they had available and the process by which they are made. We tasted several of their wines, and I was particularly impressed with their Pink Moscato (which I liked the best). It had a light, refreshing taste with a hint of citrus that made it perfect for summer days.

The next stop on our tour of the Napa Valley Wine Country was V. Sattui Winery. This winery was more formal than the others, and the wine tasting experience was more educational. . V. Sattui is a lesser known but equally exquisite winery. As we entered the winery, we were immediately impressed by the elegance and sophistication of the winery. As we entered the premises, we were immediately taken aback by the grandeur of the building. The stone exterior was beautiful and the grounds were immaculately maintained. We felt as if we had stepped into a different world. The staff at the winery was extremely friendly and helpful. They were more than happy to answer any questions that we had. We bought a bottle of something or the other along with some accompaniments.

I stuck with the whites, then fell in love with the sweets. I sampled Angelica. Angelica is a sweet, dessert-style wine made from the Muscat of Alexandria grape variety. It has a deep golden hue and tastes like is has a bouquet of honeysuckle, orange blossom, and citrus aromas. On the palate, it offers flavors of apricot, peach, and honey. It has a full bodied (heavy) and has a smooth finish. Angelica pairs well with desserts such as rich puddings, custards, and caramel-based treats, and a 750ml bottle will set you back about $55. Be warned, the label says that it is between 18-20% ABV. I yell to the V. Sattui marketing staff the same thing Rep. Joe Wilson yelled at Obama on the house floor back in 2009…”YOU LIE!!”

The final winery we visited was one with a name that stuck a cord with me…Hanna Winery. One day prior to going on this trip I was in a supermarket called Wegmans. I was in the wine section and I saw a bottle with the name Hanna Winery. Upon closer examination I discovered that the winery was in Sonoma Valley which is just adjacent to Napa Valley. So, I decided to sneak this winery visit unbeknownst to my travel partners. When we pull up and she sees the sign she began to laugh and take pictures. Once inside I asked to speak to the manager. When the manager came out, I slammed my driver’s license on the counter as if I were playing dominos and said, “I am here to collect my years of royalty fees.”

They did not get the joke and I had to show them my driver’s license. We all got a good laugh out of it and then we toured the facility. We were then taken to the outdoor patio, which overlooked the expansive vineyards and offered a breathtaking view of the valley. We enjoyed a delicious lunch and drinks while taking in the scenery. After lunch, we were able to take a walk through the vineyards, learning about the different grapes and their characteristics.

We continued to retrace the movements of the characters from the Japanese adaptation of the movie Sideways. So, on one late afternoon after touring several wineries and vineyards they wanted to visit Cafe Sarafornia. They wanted to visit this specific café because scenes from the movie were filmed there. As we approached the café something seemed a little off. As we arrived at the doorstep I figured out what was wrong…at 5 PM the café was closed. My two friends were extremely disappointed. Some of the disappointment was assuaged when they noticed that on the window were photos and press clippings regarding the filming of the movie there. The excitement of seeing this shrine quickly oscillated back to disappointment because they could not get in the café. This was particularly distressing to them because they were heading back to Japan the next day and due to their flight departure time we would not have time to visit the café the next day.

It was at this point that I saw a young woman come from the back area and go behind the counter to gathering some stuff. I called out to her and I tried to explain that my two Japanese friends would like to sit at one of the booths and take some photos. She cut me off before I could get three words out, “WE’RE CLOSED!!!!” and walked away. While I was only angered by her response and lack of empathy, my Japanese guests were mortified. Why…because generally speaking, in Japanese culture people are kind and accommodating so they found this behavior extremely rude, so I apologized to them for her bad behavior.

They proceeded to take pictures of the pictures on the window. As they were trying to salvage this experience, I saw a young man come from the back and he began to clean the café. Even though I had failed miserably in trying to get my friend and her friend in the Café once, I thought I would try my luck again. I said, “excuse me!!!” He said,, “we’re…” and I finished his terse statement, “closed…I know.” Respecting the fact that while we were trying to add texture to a holiday experience, this young man was working and probably wanted to hurry and finish up so he could get the hell out of there and do whatever it was he wanted/needed to do after work. I explained that my two friends are from Japan, they are going back home tomorrow, and they are huge fans of the movie. We don’t want to buy any food, they just would like to take a few photos inside the Café where scenes where filmed. /p>

He came over to the door and let us in. I was happy that they were happy. We rushed in thanking him as only Japanese people can thank you…with multiple bows. We wanted to respect the young workers’ time and kindness, so we quickly found a booth and began taking photos. While those two were like a kid in a candy store, I was like a studious chaperon, as the young worker who lets us in returned to his tasks.

I noticed a few framed pictures of the movie crew on the wall, and we were excited to learn more about this special place. After about ten minutes I thanked the young man and we all expressed our appreciation for his humanity. Upon I thanked him again by slipping him a twenty-dollar bill. This small gesture by this individual added that texture and a participatory element to this trip that could be matched in no other way. When we left Café Sarafornia, they were like a kid in candy store, or a child with a new favorite toy. /p>

My visit to the Napa Valley Wine Country was an amazing experience. I was able to learn about the different wineries and the wines they produce. I also had the opportunity to sample some of the wines, and purchase some as souvenirs. The wineries we visited in the Napa Valley Wine Country were Robert Mondavi Winery, Sutter Home Winery, V. Sattui Winery, and Mumm Napa. From the moment we stepped foot in the valley, we could feel the energy of the area. We were surrounded by lush vineyards, rolling hills, and a variety of wineries. The quaint towns, friendly people, and beautiful scenery made the trip even more special.

Both they and I agreed that this was one of the best vacations we had ever had. Good company, to start with, and the right amount of intoxication. Being slightly intoxicated amongst close friends can be a great source of joy. When the inhibitions of sobriety are lowered, it can lead to a more relaxed atmosphere where laughter, jokes, and stories are shared with those around you. The sense of camaraderie and connection can be enhanced, as well as a feeling of freedom and acceptance that can make the experience more memorable and even more enjoyable. All of these factors contribute to a sense of joy and contentment. Add beautiful weather, accompanied with unbelievable scenery. The rolling hills were bathed in golden light, and the vineyards stretch out like a patchwork quilt. The winding roads glimmered in the twilight, and the air was filled with the sweet smell of the grapevines. Far off in the distance, the sun set behind the Mayacamas Mountains, painting the sky in a beautiful display of pinks, oranges, and purples. The valley was peaceful and tranquil, and the perfect place to relax and watch the sunset. With the amalgamation of good like-minded friends, great tasting food and drink, great weather, and great scenery; makes it just about impossible not to have a great time.

Napa Valley Wine Country was an experience I will never forget. I was fortunate enough to be able to spend a few days in the region, and I was able to visit some of the most renowned wineries in the area. I was able to visit Robert Mondavi Winery, Sutter Home Winery, V. Sattui Winery, and Mumm Napa. Each of these locations provided me with an unforgettable experience, as I learned more about the winemaking process, tasted some of the best wines in the region, and enjoyed the beautiful scenery of the area. My first stop was Robert Mondavi Winery. As soon as I stepped foot into the winery, I was taken aback by the breathtaking views that the property had to offer. The rolling hills in the background and the lush vineyards that surrounded the winery made for a simply stunning setting. I was able to take a tour of the winery, which included a walk through the vineyards, a visit to the fermentation and barrel rooms, and a look at the bottling facility. I was also able to sample some of the wines that were produced there, and I must say that I was highly impressed.

END.

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